Or pants if you’re from the other side of the pond but whatever you call them, they’re giving me grief at the moment. In a previous post I said that a pair I had recently made only needed hemming but when I put them on to mark the hem, something niggled about the fit so I took them apart, checked the fabric pieces against the pattern and decided that I’d sewn them with the backs as the fronts. I cut new back pieces and began again. I did several more test fits and made a few adjustments and after stitching them properly to completion, tried them on to mark the hem and thought that the fit was no better than when I had sewn them back to front! Arrrgh! I cannot explain this. It is beyond my understanding. The fabric obviously has a life of its own and does not care to be wrapped around me. I am however not yet defeated.
Enter McCalls trouser pattern M6901 from their Fashion That Fits range to the rescue! I’d seen one of their tissue-fit methods demo’d in a You Tube video and with 8 sides of printed instructions in the packet how can I go wrong? I know, easily. Anyone tried one of these pattern types? Any success?
Between sewing and ripping out, I’ve been dipping in and out of three volumes of The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier books, formerly owned by a tailor which were given to me last week. My copies are the ‘new and revised edition’ which I think was published in 1949. One thing I keep noticing in the books is how the trouser back crotch seam is more acutely angled than the front crotch. This is illustrated quite well in the image below which shows a pattern for military overalls (trousers to us) which according to the book are “worn with full dress uniform for parade purposes … the waist and seat must not show any surplus material … sitting room is of no great importance, the chief essential being an elegant and smooth effect when standing”. Perhaps this is the pattern I ought to be using! Along with the books, I was given the wooden L square you can also see in the image. I’m not sure I’ll be using it to make test patterns in quarter or third sizes which I believe is its primary function but it’s already come in handy for marking long perpendicular lines.